Soap Making For Christmas Gifts
Soap making
for Christmas gifts and to decorate your bathroom can be a fun family
project throughout the year.
Make
Beautiful Soaps For Friends and Family
This
particular craft can seem a little difficult for the beginner, but in
time, if you stick with it, you can make beautiful decorative hand
soaps like the ones above.
This is also
a craft in which you need to adhere to all instructions, precautions
and tips to insure the best results, and most important to insure your
safety and those around you. The instructions found here were
created by those who are experts so their warnings are important to
read and follow. Read all directions and cautions before you
begin.
Please make
sure that children and pets do not get in the way of the process where
you are working with lye and hot water. Keep all tools and
products out of their reach. If working with children, make
sure that you practice first to insure that you understand the
process and what precautions need to be taken. With all that
in mind, have fun soap making!
NOTE:
The soap shown in the photograph above was made with a cutter
and is only an example of what you can make. Look Online or at your
local craft store for the cutters that suit your needs.
Items
Needed For This Soap Making Project
- Oils:
- 24 ounces olive oil (not extra virgin)
- 24 ounces coconut oil
- 38 ounces vegetable shortening
- Alkaline Solution:
- 12 ounces sodium hydroxide (lye). No longer readily
available; can be purchased online (see external links). Do not use
drain opener; the formulas have changed and are no longer suitable for
soap. Or make your own lye solution.
- 32 ounces spring or distilled water
- Fragrance or Essential Oil
- 4 ounces of your favorite fragrance
- dried ground herbs (optional)
- Equipment:
- Safety Goggles
- Rubber Gloves
- Scale to weigh the ingredients
- A one gallon stainless steel or enamel kettle, not
aluminum, and not lined with non-stick surface
- Glass or plastic wide mouth pitcher to hold water and
lye
- A two cup plastic or glass measuring cup
- Plastic or wooden spoons
- Stainless steel wire whisk or a hand blender
- One accurate glass thermometer that registers between
80-100 degrees F.
- Plastic shoe box for your soap mold. Spray with
vegetable spray so soap will release easily.
- 2 towels to cover your soap
- A source of running water, in case of a spill.
- You will need several hours of time to make your soap.
Soap
Making From Scratch
- Weigh out 12 ounces
of lye
(sodium hydroxide) into the two-cup measuring cup.
- Weigh 32 ounces of
cold
water in glass container.
- Slowly
add lye to water (best done outside), stirring gently. It is very important to add
the Lye to the water and not the other way around, otherwise the
reaction is too quick and it is dangerous! The lye will heat the water
and release fumes. The fumes dissipate quickly, but turn your face away
so as not to inhale the fumes. Make sure to stir with a wooden spoon,
plastic will melt and metal will react.
- Set
aside and allow the lye to cool.
- Weigh
out 24 ounces of coconut oil and 38
ounces of vegetable oil shortening into the metal kettle.
Porcelain coated metal, or glass vessels are fine, regular metal pans
and pots are fine for melting the oil, but inappropriate for mixing lye
solution with oil, or setting off lye/water mixture - use canning jars
or heavy glass made for drastic temperature changes. Melt these oils
over low heat and stir frequently. Remove from heat after oils have
melted and add the 24 ounces of olive oil.
- When
your lye has reached a range of 95-98
degrees Fahrenheit - a candy thermometer works well to check
temperature - (35-36 degrees Celsius) and your oils are at the same
temperature, add the lye in a slow steady stream to the oils.
Use the metal whisk to stir the mixture. Do NOT use metal implements to
stir raw soap! This will cause a reaction you are not looking for,
again, use a wooden spoon. After about ten minutes you will notice a
change in your mixture. This is called saponification. "Tracing" occurs
when the spoon stirred through the mixture leaves a "trace" behind it,
as happens when one is making pudding.
- Add
your fragrance when tracing occurs.
The mixture will appear like thin cream, and droplets of soap will
stand up on the surface. Stir well. Be ready to pour natural soap in
your mold. Some fragrances and essential oils (cinnamon for example),
will cause soap to want to set up quickly in your pot. Other oils like
citrus are more forgiving.
- Use an old plastic spatula to
scrape out your soap-pot. You may notice soap has a slight to
heavy ammonia like scent. This is normal. Use gloves and eye
protection! Raw soap is caustic and it can burn skin. Cold water and/or
vinegar will neutralize soap splatters. Raw soap is strong enough to
use as paint remover. Never re-use utensils for soap-making in the
kitchen or around food. Cover your shoe box with the two towels and set
aside undisturbed, and out of air drafts (including the air-conditioner
or swamp cooler) for eighteen hours. The soap will go through
a gel stage and a heat process.
At the end of this period uncover the
soap and allow to sit for another 12 hours. If you measured accurately
and followed the directions, there should be no problems. But if your
soap has a deep oily film on top, the natural soap cannot be used
because it has separated. It is disappointing if this happens. This
will occur if your measurements were not accurate, or if you did not
stir long enough or thoroughly, also if there is a drastic difference
in lye solution temp vs. oil temps when mixed.
Sometimes soap will not
set at all, or will have white or clear pockets in it. This is caused
by under-stirring during the soap-making process and the finished
product is not only unusable, but caustic!! Use care and good common
sense in disposing of this. Perfectly fine finished soap may also have
a light layer of white ash-like substance on the top. This is basically
harmless and can be scraped away with the edge of an old ruler or metal
spatula. Once you have good, solid soap, this is the only time you can
safely get any metal products near it.
- Unmold
your natural soap.
Turn the box over and allow the soap to fall on a towel or clean
surface. You can use wax paper or parchment paper lightly greased with
Vaseline to line your molds. This will greatly assist with the
unmolding process. Cut your soap into bars. Tension is what is used to
cut soap of this type. A length of wire with two handles or heavy nylon
string or fishing line is needed. A sharp knife will work fine too,
just BE CAREFUL!
Soap Making
Tips
- Temperature
is crucial when mixing the oils with the lye. If too hot, it will
separate; too cool and it won't turn into soap. If you have a thick
layer of oily stuff after the 18 hour covered period, the soap will be
unusable. If it has a layer of white stuff, don't worry about it,
that's normal. If there are small white lumps in the soap, they are lye
and it will burn if used.
- Adding any chemical to water significantly reduces the risk
of the chemical splashing back to your face. Remember, "Do what you
oughtta, add acid to water." It works with base as well.
- Don't use perfume as a fragrance, especially if it contains
alcohol. It will alter the chemical reaction that's taking place
between the lye and the fats, and will cause your soap to fail. You can
use natural essential oils, or fragrances that are specifically
manufactured for use in soaps. A little bit of essential oil or
fragrance goes a long way. You may only need a teaspoon or so.
Soap Making
Video
Soap Making
Credits
This soap making Article provided by wikiHow, a
wiki how-to manual. Find author credits at
the original wikiHow article on How to Make
Your Own Soap. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative
Commons license.
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Soap Making
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